Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 29, 2015

Traveling While Disabled // New York City

My husband's greatest dream is to live in New York City. He travels there often for work, and takes great pleasure in wandering the neighborhoods, block after block, with no real plan when his meetings are through. He'd love to live there someday "in a third-floor, walk-up apartment." Sadly, his disabled wife derails this plan for the "true New York experience."

He's not wrong: walking up the stairs and everywhere else you need to go is the true New York experience. Last week when my own plans took me to New York, he got to see New York through the disabled lens when we had some evenings free to "wander" the city together, which consisted of me on my crutches at a snail's pace, and him walking somewhat patiently behind me. Even my Sheldon Cooper-like husband knows that to express his impatience would be socially unacceptable. But I let him have a moment.

"This is annoying the shit out of you, isn't it?" I asked, sweat dripping down my face. Between the humidity, the crowds, and the constant shooting pain in my right leg, I felt like Mama June in a marathon.

"...yup." He replied somewhat sheepishly, but mostly with the candor I've come to know and love/hate about him. Beyond this, he doesn't complain. In part knowing better, and in part knowing I'd have something to say about it if he did. This is the real picture of marriage: standing by your partner, but wishing you could walk at your own pace...fifty blocks ahead. Since he is familiar with the "in sickness" part of the vows on a daily basis, I'd say he's entitled to it. After all, who was carrying my shopping bags?

Bite Beauty Lipstick Lab, my crutches, and a door with no stairs.
The one place that got it right was the Bite Beauty Lip Lab. Coincidence? I think not.
This was my third trip to New York, and I'm in worse condition than I ever have been. I am now walking with crutches permanently, dealing with pain daily, and I'm in some sort of purgatory between crutches and a wheelchair. I would have chosen the wheelchair option, but my previous trips to New York were a clue as to how accessible the city is. (Read: it isn't.) Instead, I opted to walk through the pain as best as possible, because there might not be a "next time" that I can get into that rooftop bar with no elevator.

It is extremely frustrating that New York is regarded by some as the greatest city in the world, yet it is so far behind in terms of accessibility. Nowhere was this truer for me than in the subway system, the most inaccessible part of my trip. Despite my need to prove myself, my body could only stand to take the subway twice. During the second trip my husband and friend had to call a cab after we emerged from the subway station because the trip up the stairs had left me unable to go on. Though I traveled to/from major parts of the city (Times Square and Soho), I only found ONE elevator and I couldn't even use it because it was on the wrong side of the platform. My friend surmised that because it was beneath Barclay's, they likely paid for it. And the city isn't entirely to blame, he noted, as the subway system is chartered by the state of New York.

Is me taking the subway twice a representative sample of the system at large? It would seem so. After hearing my frustration about my trip, this morning a friend of mine posted this article discussing New York's pubic transportation system. Only 21% of their subway system is accessible. This handy map gives a physical representation of that 21%, and notes that barely more than 100 stations out of 490 are accessible. (Not necessarily fully accessible, though.) And while many are quick to point out that the bus system is entirely accessible, the site also points out that it is hardly a sustainable method of controlling commuter patterns.

Cobblestone street hell.
Cobbledygook
Beyond that, why am I, on the 25th anniversary of the ADA, still having choose to sacrifice my health, or make alternate route plans? With a Master's degree in policy, I understand that change does not occur overnight. However, to be nearly 3 decades after the ADA and only 21% of the way in "the greatest city in the world" is not only a shame, it gives people like me little hope for an accessible New York in my lifetime. In a world where phone apps put out updates faster than the moon's orbit of the earth, I wonder how accepting of the status quo we would be if "the system is over 100 years old" was an excuse for the technology we use daily. Only, it is a choice to use technology. I, unfortunately, did not have a say in choosing my body's operating system.

As I clambered up the stairs to exit the subway, my husband pointed out a sign about ADA access improvements being made to the system. Ironic placement for such a sign, considering I was halfway up the stairs on a landing. In looking at the Capital Plan online, MTA states: "NYC Transit is on pace to make 100 stations fully accessible in accordance with ADA standards by 2020. With investments made through 2014, full ADA accessibility at 89 Key Stations will be complete or in progress." The Capital Plan seeks to make ADA compliant the final 11 stations, including a handful of others. This means that in five years, on the 30th anniversary of the ADA, the subway system will be about 22% compliant with ADA standards for those of its 10%+ disabled residents. 

And while you may argue that 10% may include people who are disabled, but not mobility impaired, the Capital Plan also mentions ADA compliance in terms of Braille signage and platform edge warning strips. Furthermore, as the NPR article I cited above mentions, this doesn't even take into account the scores of people who don't choose to identify themselves as disabled but have an impairment, those who are temporarily impaired, or senior citizens, nor does it take into account travelers with disabilities (in a city that sought $70 billion in tourist dollars), all of whom could benefit from an ADA compliant system. It was also brilliant of NPR to mention how the elevators in accessible stations were utilized by those carrying luggage and strollers, i.e., those most likely to take their abilities for granted. It painted a clear picture of the plague that is New York's able-bodied privilege: those with full ability taking advantage of the path laid for them by their disabled counterparts. Thank the Lord that elevator is there for your Bugaboo. At least, in 21% of your stations.

When people are in good health, it is so easy to take it for granted. Amazingly enough, for all I have been through medically, my current space is one I never even imagined I could be in. Just five years ago during my first trip to NYC, I could get up the subway stairs using the railing with just a bit more effort than the average person. It was a hit to my pride to see how much of my ability has slipped through my fingers. I grew up disabled, so I adapted to the challenges presented to me because my body didn't know any differently. To be in a state of regression is foreign and frightening. It is difficult to be kind to yourself when you feel your independence slipping away. To make myself walk up the stairs wasn't simply "foolish", it might very well have been the last time. I can at least walk away knowing that my body gave up, but I didn't. Until your own gives up, you can't fully comprehend that feeling of accomplishment.

As a person who loves and lives to travel, though this is immensely frustrating (and painful), I remain undeterred. Though my trip left me with a swollen shin and a possible need for X-rays, I refuse to stay away. It is a place near to my husband's heart, and I love to see his face light up in New York the way mine does on the west coast. But more than that, for me to return and to put my physical self in the space of an inaccessible world makes me an example. I hope that by making bar managers scramble to take me up the "easier" back set of stairs or the maĆ®tre d' get me a chair, I can make at least one person think about their "grandfathered in" space. It's a little easier to make people give a damn when you're in their face. Beyond the long shot of making people think, my words are a farther reaching and more permanent representation of what it is like to be a disabled traveler in New York.  It is difficult....but then again, so am I.

Pamela Barsky bag that reads "sure new york is difficult but then again so am i".

Monday, June 29, 2015

Off the Beaten Path // Mio, Michigan

The "off the beaten path" sections of travel guides are somewhat laughable to me. Having grown up in rural Michigan, I am familiar with places so remote they barely make the map, let alone a travel guide. It is in places like these that I have found my traveling feet, and because of these places I'm not afraid to venture into less frequented areas in major cities because I know what the road less traveled really looks like.

A couple of weeks ago, my mom and I took a quick day trip to Mio, Michigan. (That's pronounced "my-oh".) A small town similar to the one I grew up in, Mio has a population of about 2,000 people and is located in the northern part of the lower peninsula on the banks of the AuSable River. Fun fact: my senior trip in high school was a canoe trip on the AuSable, an adventure I was less than pleased about though it excused me from school for the day.

Mio is a popular destination with my family members. My mother took frequent trips there as a child to her grandfather's remote hunting cabin in the woods on Town Line Road, a gravel road that has been widened to accommodate 2 cars only in recent years. While the cabin has changed owners, Mio is a place my mom still enjoys going. I was about 12 the first time she took me there, and a floral dress was apparently my high fashion outfit choice to meander the woods of northern Michigan in the mid-90s:

Not a word.
The weather was not our friend on our recent trip, and the restaurant we wanted to eat in didn't open this season. Still, I managed to get some shots of the highlights (read: trees). After a pit stop at a quilt store, we took a swing on Town Line Road and ended up at the Amish bakery to get our favorite homemade pineapple squares. The bakery has changed ownership since I was a kid and the house is now equipped with electricity, so this could mean that the owners might identify as Mennonite rather than Amish, but I didn't grill the proprietor on her identity. In any case, they are not baking with updated equipment. Their lack of granite countertops and stainless steel appliances could be defined as "roughing it" by modern society's spoiled standards. Should you find yourself in Mio your trip would not be complete without a stop at the bakery on Camp Ten Road. (It's simply called "The Bakery" because it's THE one to go to.) We attempted to go to the scenic overlook by the AuSable, but by the time we got there the storm had moved in in full force. Even so, it was everything a trek off the beaten path should be: quiet, tourist-free, and relaxing. Mio doesn't boast major attractions, but that is the essence of its charm.

Traveling down Town Line Road. 




Begin horse and buggy traffic montage.





Storm clouds moving in.

We were unable to get a good view of the AuSable River on the overlook due to the weather.

The piece de resistance: Pineapple Squares from the Amish (?) bakery.


Sunday, September 21, 2014

Pratik's Birthday // Kayaking in Sausalito

This week was my husband's birthday. I generally celebrate his birthday by taking him on an outing that he's been asking me to go on, but that I've dragged my feet about. Since marriage is about compromise, I've found myself renting convertibles, camping, fishing, and engaging in other outdoor activities that I would not otherwise partake in willingly. This weekend was no exception.

For the past few months, every time we've been by the coastline Pratik has asked me to rent a kayak. After months of asking, today he got his wish. We took our friends Josh and Lauren, Pratik's visiting mom, and Molly to Sausalito to fulfill Pratik's kayaking dreams. Though Molly jumped out of the kayak at the last minute to stay on land with Pratik's mom, I have to admit that today was one of the more enjoyable "compromise" birthday gifts. I was pretty surprised at the amount of water we covered. We were having such an amazing time that we neglected to take photos of our fellow kayaking friends. The views of the San Francisco Bay, the surrounding boats, and the wildlife were quite amazing. I took my old point-and-shoot camera (for fear of capsizing with my big camera), but the pictures still speak for themselves. Happy Birthday, Pratik!

House boats in Sausalito
We saw several seals, including this nearby swimmer.
Boats anchored in the SF Bay
Pratik paddling, having more fun than his facial expressions allowed for this photo.
Perhaps if I rowed instead of taking selfies, he'd have a better time. 
Boats and fellow kayakers in the bay
Kayak paddle

My favorite boat, called the Hindeloopen, looked like something out of a fairy tale.

This is my second favorite boat. Yosemite Sam on the stern, parked next to a yacht. 
Yosemite Sam's neighboring yacht. 

my feet in the kayak

Tuesday, August 5, 2014

Travel Treasures #1 // Michigan Edition

It is difficult for me to discern where the line between my love for shopping and my love for travel lies. At this point, the line is so blurry in my brain that the two activities are lumped into one big orgy of fun for my prefrontal cortex. A vacation without having shopped is no vacation at all.

Similarly, there is a blurred line between "trip" and "vacation". To me, "trip" implies that there is work or business attached to it. This grey area is where family trips lie. I spend a lot of time shuttling back to the Midwest to see family. That I consider these "trips" isn't necessarily a bad thing; I've got a finite amount of time and a lot of quality time to squeeze in, so I mean business when I go home. Still, if I'm making any sort of trek you can bet your bottom dollar I'll be searching for treasures. My eyes are always peeled. 

Here is where we run into a challenge: my Michigan hometown is not a shopping mecca. In fact, it is so rural that you should tread lightly when describing things as a "mecca". This was always my biggest grievance about my location growing up. I shop, therefore I am. Therefore, existing without malls in my proximity in an era when online shopping was merely emerging is what I considered "roughing it" growing up. Desperate times called for desperate measures in the aisles of mass retailers like Wal-Mart and (recently deceased) K-Mart. Given that this hasn't changed, and that there's family involved in this kind of travel, we are better off not using my previous description of "orgy of fun" when talking about shopping during my family trips to Michigan. Despite that, even though I may not be having all the fun that the Romans did when in Rome, I'm pretty good at creating my own culture.

Whatever you fancy, locals at home know that sometimes you have to create your own fun in our remote corner of the world. When one gets desperate to scratch the retail itch, one gets crafty. My late grandmother, a purveyor of garage sales, auctions, and dollar stores, was a master at finding items for a dollar or less. (My husband cringes each time I channel my grandmother's enthusiasm from beyond the grave to say "it was on sale!") I like to think that my eagle eye came from being her shopping apprentice. Just as I can spot the pins in the carpet after my mother's sewing group leaves her house, I can spot a one-of-a-kind item in the abyss of a rummage sale. My keen eye is an inherited trait.

It was this force that was with me when I bumbled into Kim's Creamery in Elkton, the local ice cream shop around the corner from my childhood home. Kim's is open seasonally and in addition to scooping up ice cream, they also serve other great desserts and sandwiches. (The latter makes me wish they weren't a seasonal operation!) As if the ice cream weren't enough of an indulgence, Kim's also has a small selection of vintage items, which you know I couldn't help but rifle through. And and it was there, in my post-black-cherry-ice-cream-haze, that I saw her: a vintage Saks Fifth Avenue pocketbook.

Vintage Saks Fifth Avenue Pocketbook, Black, Gold Hardware
I did a little internet digging to see how old it might be. In matching the label with one found on VintageFashionGuild.org, my best guess is that the bag dates back to the late 1940s/early 1950s, an era in which things were built to last. Considering she's sailing right past 70 years old, I'd say a lot of love went into making this bag. Her "Made in England" tag also appeals to my Anglophile heart. This post-war beauty came from a time and a place where the future was looking brighter, quality mattered, and a good structured bag helped one put their best foot forward. The mere thought of the hand gloves she must have held sends my heart aflutter...
Saks Fifth Avenue Label
Made in England Label
Gold Clasp

She needs some love (the handle leather is cracked where it meets the hardware), but she's in standard vintage condition. I tried a smidge of black shoe polish on the handle, but it only minimally masked the issue. I would like to find a way to spruce it up without replacing the handle, as it is tacked onto the bag quite hard, but defects add charm for vintage lovers. They present challenges for us to bring out the best in our items, as well as add character when little flaws aren't fixable. I appreciate one well-worn item ten times more than several items, unused, in impeccable condition. (Do as I say, not as my closet sometimes indicates.)

Over the years, I've had recurring dreams of upscale shopping in close proximity to my old stomping grounds. A mall next to my high school cafeteria (like the cool kids in my current town get...spoiled little turds), a Ralph Lauren at the corner of Elkton and Geiger Roads (with a wheat field backdrop). But never in my wildest dreams did I imagine finding a Saks Fifth Avenue gem right smack in the center of town...with ice cream to boot. 

While my wildest dreams are the place where a 2-story Saks is erected in place of defunct banks on Elkton's Main Street, when will lightning strike again and plop a classic leather bag right into my hands for the low price of $10? Probably around a quarter to never. And isn't finding a one of a kind better than picking one of ten off the rack? In my not always humble opinion, way better!

Thursday, September 29, 2011

wanderlust

The word wanderlust came up today. It was kind of jarring, because I forgot that I have it. Not that I don't daydream constantly about the next big adventure or place I could be, but I forgot about it...like an affliction one has that they forget about until they have to maintain it. Like I forgot this nagging feeling had a name. It's such a funny thing. Always wanting to be somewhere else, but loving where you are. 
(Carmel-by-the-Sea is one of my favorite places on earth. It's my retirement plan.)

Sunday, January 30, 2011

Treats from India

My husband and mother-in-law brought me some treats from India. This neem tulsi (Indian lilac and holy basil) soap is strongly scented (I can smell it here in my bedroom, and it's in my shower). They also gave me REAL Indian Kajal! I have been playing with black eyeliner the past few weeks and have come to realize that I can wear it without looking like a drag queen. A poorly dressed one, rather, because there are some beautiful DQs out there! I'll post pictures in a later related post. They also brought this Colgate toothpaste which I really got a kick out of. First, it's "super shakti," or super strength, and it's approved by the IDA, Indian Dental Association, just like our ADA. Oh, and it's "100%  Vegetarian." (I heart localization.) 






 The kajal packing says that this doesn't require sharpening...not sure how that's going to work, but nevertheless it looked really good!